The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille is darker and richer than the Rennina. Black cherries, plums, tar, licorice, minerals and leather all come together in this brooding Brunello. The fruit remains intense and full-bodied all the way through to the powerful and deeply satisfying close. Despite the wine?s heft, all of the components are woven together with remarkable harmony. This is a wonderful effort from Angelo Gaja. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2026. Angelo Gaja?s wines from Montalcino seem to get far less attention than his wines from Piedmont and Maremma, but they can equally compelling. Gaja did not produce his Brunellos in 2002 or 2003 which demonstrates his commitment to putting only the finest juice in the bottle. Robert Parker

Again lovely deep colour. This has touches of licquorice on the nose, as well as hallmark assam tea and roasted herbs. On the palate incredibly mineral, with black fruit emphasis and notes of cocoa - even dark chocolate. Really silky, with finely grained ripe tannic structure and vital acidity. There is greater intensity here than with Rennina, a bit more reserved at this stage but with more elevated minerality. A long, rich textural finish. Simply exemplary - drink from 2011 to 2025.